What is a network switch and what does it do?

A network switch expands the number of wired Ethernet ports in your home. It connects to your router and gives you additional ports for desktops, smart TVs, gaming consoles and other devices that benefit from a wired connection.

Do I need a managed or unmanaged switch for my home?

Most homes only need an unmanaged switch, which requires zero configuration. A managed switch is only necessary if you want to set up VLANs, QoS traffic prioritization or advanced network monitoring.

How much does it cost to run Ethernet wiring in a house?

DIY costs are minimal — roughly $150 to $250 in materials for a typical 4-6 drop home install (cable, switch, jacks, tools). Professional installation in Western Canada runs $150 to $250 per drop, including cable, termination and wall plates.

Network Switches and Home Ethernet Wiring: A Complete Setup Guide

Q: What type of Ethernet cable should I use for in-wall wiring?

Use Cat 6 or Cat 6a solid-core cable rated CMR or CMP for in-wall runs. This supports Gigabit speeds over the full 100-metre Ethernet limit and is fire-safety compliant for residential wall installations in Canada.

What Is a Network Switch and Why Would You Want One?

A network switch is a small box that gives you more wired Ethernet ports in your home. Your router usually has four LAN ports — if you need to hardwire a desktop, a gaming console, a smart TV, a NAS and a work laptop, you run out of ports fast. A switch solves that by expanding those four ports into eight, sixteen or more.

Unlike a WiFi extender or mesh node, a switch does not broadcast a wireless signal. It handles wired connections only. That is exactly the point: wired Ethernet delivers lower latency, higher throughput and zero interference compared to WiFi. For anything that sits still — a desk, an entertainment centre, a home office — a wired connection through a switch is almost always better than WiFi.

Unmanaged vs. Managed: Which Switch Do You Need?

Switches come in two broad categories, and the choice is straightforward for most homes:

Unmanaged Switches (Most Homes)

Plug it in, connect your cables, done. No setup, no software, no configuration screens. An unmanaged 8-port gigabit switch costs $25–$50 and is all most households will ever need. Brands like TP-Link, Netgear and D-Link all make reliable consumer models.

Managed Switches (Advanced Users)

A managed switch lets you configure VLANs, QoS priorities, port mirroring and traffic monitoring. If you have followed our home VLAN setup guide and want to segment your IoT devices onto a separate network, you will need a managed switch. Expect to pay $60–$150 for an 8-port managed gigabit model. Most home users do not need one unless they are running a segregated smart-home network or a home lab.

How to Choose the Right Switch

Four things matter when picking a switch for home use:

1. Port Count

Count every device you plan to hardwire in that area, then add two spare ports for future devices. An 8-port switch covers most single-room setups (home office or entertainment centre). A 16-port model is better if you are wiring an entire floor.

2. Speed Rating

For the vast majority of homes, a Gigabit (1 Gbps) switch is the right choice. It matches the speed of most internet plans and handles local file transfers at over 100 MB/s. If your internet plan is 1.5 Gbps or faster and your devices support it, a 2.5 Gbps switch future-proofs your setup — these are becoming affordable at $40–$80 for 5-port models.

Skip 10/100 Mbps switches; they bottleneck everything and cost nearly the same as Gigabit models.

3. PoE (Power over Ethernet)

If you plan to power security cameras, access points or VoIP phones through the Ethernet cable itself, you need a PoE switch. PoE models cost more ($80–$200 for 8 ports) but eliminate the need for separate power adapters at each device. If you do not need PoE, save the money — a standard switch will do.

4. Form Factor

Desktop switches are compact and fanless — ideal for a shelf or desk. Rack-mount switches are wider and meant for a structured wiring closet or server rack. For a typical home, desktop is the way to go.

Planning Your Home Ethernet Wiring

A switch is only as useful as the cables feeding it. If you are building or renovating, running Ethernet cable through your walls is the single best upgrade you can make to your home network. Here is how to plan it:

Pick a Central Location

Your router and main switch should live in a central spot — a basement utility room, a hallway closet or wherever your internet service enters the home. All cable runs radiate out from here. If your modem and router are already in a good spot, use it.

Decide Where You Need Drops

Plan at least one Ethernet drop (wall jack) in each of these locations:

Home office or desk area — hardwired is non-negotiable for reliable video calls and file transfers
Living room / entertainment centre — smart TV, streaming box, gaming console
Bedrooms with desks — especially if anyone works or games from a bedroom
WiFi access point locations — if you use a mesh WiFi system, a wired backhaul connection to each node dramatically improves performance

Run two cables to each drop if possible. The marginal cost of a second cable during construction is negligible, and it gives you a spare for future use or a dedicated line for a PoE camera.

Choose the Right Cable

For new installations, use Cat 6 or Cat 6a cable. Both support Gigabit speeds over the full 100-metre Ethernet limit, and Cat 6a handles 10 Gbps at shorter runs — useful for future-proofing. Cat 5e still works for Gigabit but does not leave room to grow. Avoid anything below Cat 5e.

Use solid-core cable for in-wall runs (it holds up better when pulled through studs and conduit) and stranded-core patch cables for the short connections between your wall jack and device. All cable should be rated CMR (riser) or CMP (plenum) if it runs through walls or ceilings — this is a fire-safety code requirement in most Canadian jurisdictions.

Terminate Properly

Each cable run ends at a keystone jack in a wall plate on the room side, and at a patch panel or directly into the switch on the closet side. A punch-down tool (about $15) and a bag of Cat 6 keystone jacks (about $1 each) are all you need. Plenty of video tutorials walk through the T568B wiring standard — use the same standard on both ends of every cable.

Setting Up Your Switch

For an unmanaged switch, setup takes about 30 seconds:

Plug the switch into power.
Connect one port to your router's LAN port with a short patch cable.
Connect your devices (or wall-jack patch cables) to the remaining ports.
Done. The switch auto-negotiates speed with each device.

Every device plugged into the switch gets a local IP address from your router's DHCP server, just as if it were plugged directly into the router. No configuration changes on your router are needed.

Daisy-Chaining Switches: When and How

If you need more ports in a second room, you can connect a second switch to the first with a single Ethernet cable (called an "uplink"). This works fine for most homes, but keep two rules in mind:

Limit the chain to two or three switches deep. Each hop adds a tiny amount of latency. For home use this is negligible, but avoid running five switches in a chain.
Use the same speed on both switches. Connecting a Gigabit switch to a 100 Mbps switch bottlenecks everything behind the slower unit.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Plugging the switch into your router's WAN port. The WAN port connects to your modem. Your switch goes into a LAN port. Plug it into WAN and nothing behind the switch will get an IP address.
Using flat or ultra-thin cables for long runs. Flat Ethernet cables are fine for short desk-to-switch runs but are not rated for in-wall installation and can pick up interference on runs over 5–10 metres.
Ignoring cable management. Label both ends of every cable run before you close up the wall. A label maker and numbered keystones save hours of troubleshooting later.
Buying a switch with too few ports. An 8-port switch uses one port for the uplink to your router, leaving seven usable ports. If you need exactly seven device ports, get the 8-port. If you might grow, grab a 16-port — the price difference is small.

When to Hire a Professional

Running Ethernet through finished walls is doable as a DIY project if you are comfortable with a drill and a fish tape. But if your home has concrete walls, fire-stops between floors or limited attic access, a low-voltage wiring contractor can save you time and frustration. In Western Canada, expect to pay $150–$250 per drop (cable, jack, patch panel termination) for a professional install — less if you are running multiple drops at once.

If your internet itself needs an upgrade before any of this matters, check Get WiFi rates — a faster plan paired with wired connections is the best combination for a lag-free home network.

Quick Reference: Home Ethernet Shopping List

Item	Typical Cost	Notes
8-port Gigabit switch	$25 – $50	Unmanaged, fanless desktop
Cat 6 cable (1,000 ft box)	$80 – $130	Solid-core, CMR rated
Cat 6 keystone jacks (10-pack)	$10 – $15	Match T568B on both ends
Wall plates (single/dual)	$2 – $4 each	Blank keystone plates
Punch-down tool	$12 – $20	One-time purchase
Patch cables (various lengths)	$5 – $10 each	Stranded-core, Cat 6
12- or 24-port patch panel (optional)	$20 – $40	Cleaner closet-side termination

Frequently Asked Questions

Will a switch slow down my internet?

No. A Gigabit switch forwards traffic at wire speed with no measurable delay. Your internet speed is determined by your plan and connection type, not the switch.

Can I use a switch with a mesh WiFi system?

Absolutely. Connecting your mesh nodes to the switch with Ethernet (wired backhaul) is one of the best upgrades you can make. It frees up the wireless radio for client devices instead of inter-node communication.

Do I need a switch if my router already has four ports?

Only if you need more than four wired connections. If four ports cover your devices, the router's built-in switch is fine.

Need a faster connection to go with your new wired setup? View Get WiFi plans and pricing or sign up online — fibre and cable plans with no data caps.